Finding Or Starting A Buying Club

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What is a buying club? Many people have never even heard of this concept and I’m continually amazed at how most people still consider things like organic fruits and vegetables to be something that ‘snobs’ eat! I’ve really heard people say this and it hurts to hear because I feel if they only knew the benefits (or even worse, how bad conventional food is!) that they would switch in a heartbeat.

Even sadder are those who KNOW and just can’t afford it!

 

As everyone is usually looking to lower their food costs I recommend buying clubs. These are local co-operatives where people usually volunteer a little of their time to keep the group running (things like sweeping after close, helping to stock the shelves, put together orders, etc.) in exchange for getting access to wholesale prices on perishable and non-perishable items.

Some buying clubs have connections to local farmers for fresh, raw cow and goat’s milk, but also other local products at cheap prices. In addition, they buy from Azure Standard, Frontier, Tropical Traditions, and other companies that cater to buying clubs. Local farmers also bring in their eggs to sell or trade at prices that are much more reasonable than those crooks at the farmer’s market or grocery store sell them for. If you bring back the egg cartons to refill often these clubs will give you a little discount for each carton they get back.

So you’re ready to find or start a buying club, huh? I’ve got some links below that can get you started with that:

http://startabuyingclub.com/
http://www.coopdirectory.org/
http://www.unitedbuyingclubs.com/
http://www.foodcoopinitiative.coop/buyingclubs

Let’s say, though, that there are no local buying clubs and you can’t or don’t want to start one in your area. There is now a really great alternative I heard a week ago called Thrive Market. They have a good selection of natural products now, but their customer service said that the selection will get even bigger soon. They’re a new company, just started, and their mission is to make healthy food affordable for everyone. They only deal in non-perishables for now, but think of Costco or Sam’s Club but for a place like Whole Foods? Their prices are even cheaper than Amazon in most cases, and a LOT cheaper than Whole Foods.

How Chicken Eggs Are Formed

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Something we don’t often think about is the miracle of how chicken eggs are formed. We pretty much tend to take it for granted that we’re going to have some eggs in the coop and most folks don’t tend to think beyond that. Here is a great, short little video explaining how eggs are formed. This can also help explain why some internal parasites can get inside eggs as well!

If you’ve ever had a hen that got sick or died due to being egg-bound this video might help you understand how that could happen a little better. Since I brought up that topic one tip that’s worked for me before with an egg-bound hen was soaking her in warm water for a few minutes. This tip is best used on a warm day so your hen doesn’t get too cold.

Photo by: Julia

Chicken Coop Insulation and Ventilation Options

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Now that winter is officially here, if you haven’t already (and you really should have done by now!) you need to look at your chicken coop insulation and ventilation. This is a place where everyone seems to ‘know’ the answer and yet there are a lot of wrong answers. I’m hoping to clear up some of the confusion in this area for everyone. There are a few things that you MUST do.

Have a DRY coop

Currently a good portion of the US is rainy and wet and expected to stay so for a few months. Add cold to that and you can have some very unhealthy chickens.

The cold, wet air can encourage illnesses of the head and lungs such as flu, cold, bronchitis, cough, or some of the more ‘official’ sounding chicken diseases like coryza (a bacterial cold bug). But more than just illnesses, the damp conditions will breed a horde of fungi and molds that can be very dangerous or even fatal for your flock. To prevent this, start by removing anything that can serve as a breeding ground for mold or fungus inside the coop.

  • Hay and straw usually come with their own types of molds and fungi so if they start to get damp, scrape and dump it. In wet weather I usually don’t even bother putting it in the coop to begin with.
  • Water dishes that have been repeatedly filled but never washed. Slimy mold tends to build up and then the hens are actively drinking it. Yuck.
  • In places where it is often rainy (like the Pacific Northwest) or has a long rainy season (Florida and the low areas) it’s best to make a coop that does not have insulation between the walls because unless you spray it with nasty chemicals that can outgas into your coop, it’s going to get damp and because of lack of air circulation it will stay damp which turns into mold and mildew. Possibly even the dreaded black mold that is guaranteed to get into the lungs of your flock and YOU!

Have a TEMPERATURE STABLE coop

So let’s say that in the summer your coop has good airflow, catches the breezes just right, and stays nice and dry even in the rain. Your hens are happy and productive, giving you a lot of eggs because you also give them good feed and access to fresh water and insects.

Then winter comes . . .

This same coop that worked so well during the summer months becomes a nightmare. It doesn’t keep the drafts out completely. The plastic you put up over it catches the wind and frequently rips pieces of the coop or blows away. Your hens are freezing cold and huddled together so tightly that you don’t think you could pry them apart with a stick. The water is frozen in the dish.

What do you do?

Have a FUNGUS/MOLD-FREE coop

So your hens are warm and cozy. They’ve snuggled up together against a big hay bale to keep warm and there are enough hens to generate heat that prevents them from getting cold in the 20F temperatures outside. But the air grows moist from a combination of spilled water, ammonia fumes from the chicken waste, and no ventilation. Soon the hay bale wilts and the fungal spores start to grow from inside. Even the walls themselves are growing mold and mildew from the moist conditions. The chickens start to get sick from the damp, moldy air and the fumes from their own waste.

Or you could take those warm, cozy hens you started with and keep them that way by making sure there is a good airflow from bottom to top (cool air comes in on the bottom and carries away the air that is too moist or too warm up through the roof). You can use hay bales if you want, but keep in mind that they carry a lot of fungi and molds so it’s critical to keep the air the perfect balance between moist and dry or you’ll have problems. We’ve already explored how the the temperature variations can cause problems, as well as the moisture, but try taking some additional steps to keep your flock safe in the very likely event that you aren’t perfect and will never have the perfect balance of temperature and moisture.

  • When you do seasonal cleaning, spray the walls with a light solution of vinegar and lemon, lavender, or thyme oil (thyme oil was the original Lysol…). This will help prevent mold and mildew.
  • Paint the interior of your coop at seasonal cleaning time with mold and mildew resistant paint. They have a low VOC paint that is safe for animals and humans.
  • Put a couple of drops of apple cider vinegar in your chicken water to help combat mold or fungal growth where the water gets spilled.
  • Stay on top of chicken waste, especially in the winter.
  • If you serve your flock a hot mash or peelings for a treat, make sure they eat it all and if they don’t make sure it’s cleaned out of the coop within two days.

There are several options for insulation that work for coops depending on your needs. If you live in a hot, dry area then the type of insulation you need is drastically different from someone who lives in a cold, damp climate.

HOT & DAMP (Florida, Coastal South, etc) Insulation isn’t needed, but ventilation is a must to prevent mold and fungus.
HOT & DRY (Southwest US) Insulation isn’t needed as much. Focus on keeping flock hydrated.
COLD (or COOL) & DAMP (Pacific Southwest) Light insulation since temperatures rarely go below 25F. Ventilation is important to prevent illness, mold, and fungus.
COLD & DRY (Midwest states) Insulation required, ventilation type depends on amount of chickens in coop. May need additional heat source, but usually a heated water dish will provide enough warmth unless you have very few chickens or a very large coop.
EXTREME COLD (Upper Midwest, Canada) Insulation required, ventilation depends on amount of chickens in coop. Will certainly need additional heat source.

Roll insulation works really well, but to prevent mold problems inside the walls where I can’t see it, I like to use a safe roll insulation like bamboo or recycled denim. I’m not really concerned that way if the hens peck at it a little. Just staple it up on the walls, then cover the walls with cut to fit chicken wire or micromesh

Photo by: fishermansdaughter

Insect and Worm Farming – An Unusual Way To Make Extra Money

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Hens love bugs and so do fish. Worm farming is one way to provide a steady supply of food for both. If you’ve never thought about farming worms and bugs, look at some of the many potential benefits:

    1. It is an inexpensive and unique way to keep your chickens fed with a high quality, natural protein source that will provide you with rich, yellow yolked eggs even in the winter
    2. Your garden will thrive when it is full of earthworms and beneficial insects like ladybugs
    3. Not only from the worms themselves, but the ‘worm tea’ they produce is a wonderful natural fertilizer for growing plants
    4. When it’s time for fishing season, you’ll always have worms at hand
    5. Also come fishing season, you can sell some of your extra worms as bait
    6. Don’t forget other insects, though. You can sell some of those to your neighbors, too

The best time to start thinking about an addition like this is winter or what I call prime planning weather. Spring comes around faster than we are ready for it sometimes, so if you’re thinking that having a worm box or insect box might not be a bad idea then start looking for a place to put your new friends. This company has a great FAQ section and their products are available in the US, Australia, Canada, and several other countries.

Tumbleweed.co.au

It’s too complicated to get into the how-to on my blog here, but I wanted to put forth worm and insect farming as an idea that is rarely considered. It can be as big or small as you want, but the rewards are very gratifying for those who love to homestead.

Guide to Common Chicken Illnesses and Diseases Part II

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Hey folks, John here. Here is part two of the series I wrote about chicken diseases and common illnesses. But before I get too far into that, I wanted to address something here based on several emails I’ve received since the first post:

I’m not a doctor or a vet. I know, big surprise! With that obvious statement made, I need to advise you all to speak more with your vet if you suspect a serious problem. Sure things like garlic, oregano, cayenne, yogurt, and vinegar are going to help keep your chickens healthy and can reduce the severity of many common illnesses. But how can you tell the difference between a common illness and a serious disease? Even experienced chicken farmers can’t do that sometimes so getting a vet you trust will help out enormously in the long run. Remember, if they recommend a course of treatment it doesn’t mean that you have to follow that exact protocol if you feel another way is right. But you do need to get a good idea of what you’re working with first. If it’s something serious you may be legally required to destroy your flock to protect the people and animals nearby. Or if your vet starts prescribing a bunch of antibiotics for your chicken’s cold, well . . . you can probably treat that as you see fit. It all has to do with using common sense (which they say isn’t common, incidentally). Sometimes you have to bite the bullet and accept a treatment which would otherwise be something you wouldn’t use. Perhaps if I describe to you the term ‘allopathic medicine’ then you will better understand what I mean.

Allopathic medicine is the type of medicine most commonly practiced in Western countries for humans and animals. It was originally meant only for emergencies, then it became used for all situations. Think about it like this: if I break my leg I’m definitely going to the ER and I’m going to be thankful for the allopathic medicine the doctors use there such as x-rays and pain meds. However if I have a cold I’m not going to call in the AMA’s S.W.A.T team. I’m going to treat it myself instead of proverbially dropping napalm to kill a squirrel in the forest.

Lastly, before I get to the meat of this article, I’d like to ask you to not believe everything you read on the internet or even in books when it comes to herbs and natural healing. When my wife took a course on herbalism she was told to cross check everything among at least 3 separate sources but preferably more. A lot of forums will have information that is very helpful but is usually incomplete and written by folks that are hardly experts. On the internet, knowledge gets passed around like kids playing Telephone. D Mannose might be great for people with UTI’s, for example, and it prevents bacteria from sticking to the urethra which eliminates them and usually cures the UTI. But if you rush right out to treat yourself with it and happen to have diabetes then you might wind up in the hospital since it also raises blood sugar levels. See what I mean? Do your homework. I know too many people who just accept something they read on Dr. Google ( or hear from Dr. Oz or Dr. Phil) as fact without further research. Your chickens (and you) deserve better.

Mareks Disease

This is actually a viral disease that attacks chickens all over the world. Although sometimes turkeys and quail can fall victim to this, it rarely spreads to other fowl. In recent years there have been some pretty nasty strains of Marek’s popping up in North America and Europe. It can also be hard to get rid of and even industrial disinfectants can’t destroy it all the time.

Look out for birds that seem to appear like they’ve had a stroke. By this I mean that they look like parts of their body are paralyzed, especially in their legs or wings. Sometimes you’ll see their necks go floppy like they can’t hold them up. Their eyes may look funny as if the pupils are different sizes or a different shape. Usually they go blind if their eyes are affected. Many times you’ll have a few birds who show symptoms and many asymptomatic birds so be warned that your flock may be affected more than what is immediately apparent. There is no cure for Marek’s and it’s often fatal. Things that can help prevent this is good hygiene for your flock. If your flock does develop Marek’s then you need to probably build a new coop and move all surviving hens. Any new hens you introduce need to have been vaccinated against Marek’s disease, even if they are chicks born of mothers who carry the disease since it doesn’t pass on from mother to chick. Do not put your hens back in the old area for 3-5 years if ever since Marek’s is known to be able to survive in open conditions for years.

If you suspect Marek’s, call your vet right away so you can have someone walk you through the complicated steps of dealing with this nasty virus.

Infectious Coryza

This is a bacteria called Haemophilus paragallinarum and is relatively common but rarely fatal among fowl. It’s easy to kill once outside the host and usually dissipates within a few days. A good scrubbing inside the coop will usually get rid of it easily.

Garlic is a good preventative for any bacterial infections, such as coryza, as well as properly caring for your flock by cleaning their environment regularly and preventing cold, damp conditions from existing.

Even though coryza is really just a dreadful cold with symptoms such as bubbly eyes, open-mouthed breathing, nasal congestion, and a bad smell coming from the sinuses, most experienced chicken farmers will cull all affected birds for a number of reasons:

    1. affected birds are carriers for life and will infect other birds that are healthy
    2. birds who recover from coryza, which most do, will suffer recurrent bouts for most of their life and particularly when they are under stress
    3. you generally can only completely get rid of this by using antibiotics, which is okay in emergency situations, but then your hens are weaker and eventually the whole flock is weaker including weak offspring
    4. you probably can’t ever introduce clean, healthy birds into the flock again because they will also get sick

If you choose to cull the entire flock then this is probably also a prudent option, even if it is a sad one. Make sure to scrub and disinfect everything the chickens have used and leave it to dry for a week or two before introducing a new flock.

Avian Pox

Also called Fowlpox, this is a virus that can spread easily amongst fowl through bits of dead skin from the chickens rubbing up against each other and from mosquitoes. It spreads and develops very slowly, over several weeks. You’ll probably first notice that your chickens seem depressed with a lack of appetite and their egg production will probably start to drop. Then you will see little nobby wart-type nodules start to form on the combs, legs, and skin of the face. Although the actual pox aren’t dangerous and morbidity for it is fairly low, it often leads to secondary infections which do cause serious complications. Since this is a virus then obviously no antibiotic will cure it. Elderberry and astragalus given as a tonic daily in your chicken’s water will help prevent viral infections of all kinds, but stop giving it at the first sign of an actual virus since it will strengthen the virus as well as the chicken’s immune system.

If you live in an area with a lot of mosquitoes you might consider getting your flock vaccinated for this disease.

Until later,

John

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Guide to Common Chicken Illnesses and Diseases Part I

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I get emails every day asking about chicken diseases and I generally walk through different things with those subscribers to help them figure out what the problem is. However with a little foreknowledge and prevention, I’d like to think that problems can be stopped before they begin. This is part one of a two part series I’ve written about chicken illnesses.

Mycoplasmosis

You’ll probably first notice some wheezing and sneezing in affected birds. Then watery eyes that some people call ‘bubbly’ in appearance. If you see these symptoms then you should call a vet right away to have a look. This may require antibiotics, in fact it probably will, in which case you’ll want to wait about a week after the last treatment before eating any eggs from affected birds. With systemic infections I’ve found that anti-biotics are unfortunately required. After this a course of yogurt and/or lacto-fermented veggies is best to build up the immune system of the sick birds.

Prevention and treatment for mild cases can use minced FRESH garlic and a bit of RAW apple cider vinegar (that’s the cloudy stuff) in their water and feed. But the best method of prevention is to make sure you don’t introduce asymptomatic carriers into your flock. If purchasing new chickens take them to be tested first by a vet since once a bird has caught this bacterial disease they are carriers for life.
Avian Flu

Sometimes with Avian Influenza as well as other diseases like Exotic Newcastle Disease (also called HPAI and END respectively) the only symptoms you’ll find are dead birds. If you’re sharp-eyed or there are more obvious symptoms before the end then you’ll notice diarrhea, red flanks, purple faces and combs, and a sort of rattle and wheeze in their breathing.

Unfortunately there really is no cure for this. Prevention methods are also difficult other than the obvious measure of not introducing ill birds into your flock. Usually wild birds will bring this disease to your fowl which is very hard to stop. Netting over the run if you have a small one will help, but truly pastured birds… it’s just not practical. Any ill birds you must quarantine and have them tested, then humanely destroyed.
Coccidiosis

Coccidiosis is a disease caused by a parasite family called Eimeria, of which there are several types that can affect different parts of the GI tract. It is important to treat this quickly so the infestation does not become too severe and kill the chicken. It particularly affects young chicks because they’re immune systems are so vulnerable.

Olive leaf, mustard seeds, oregano, cloves (whole or ground), good ol’ garlic and raw apple cider vinegar, etc. can help treat and prevent this incredibly common illness. The eggs of the parasites, called oocysts, are found in the soil and in feces, especially where it’s moist like near your feeders and waterers as well as if you have any roof leaks in the coop which is why it’s so important to check for these twice a year. Some of the best prevention is just to keep everything in your coop really clean.
Botulism

Unfortunately this is another one where you might notice a dead chicken before you notice symptoms since it kills so rapidly, in only a few hours sometimes. What you probably will see first would be trembling and shaking, feather loss, and eventually paralysis before death. Just as in humans, botulism is deadly to fowls so don’t ever give them or any animal food that you don’t think is safe for a human to eat. Improperly canned food, food from dented cans, etc. But more often chicken ingest the botulism spores from water or food that has a dead animal in it or from eating insects that fed on a dead animal.

There is no natural cure for botulism. I’ve heard that you can give them water with epsom salt if you notice symptoms quickly but it didn’t work for me when I had a bird who died of this a few years ago. I just made sure to bury the raccoon carcass that fell in their feeder and scrubbed it within an inch of its plastic life. We snapped the bird’s neck so it wouldn’t suffer any more needlessly. There is an anti-toxin that the vet carries, but it is pretty expensive and when I called they said sometimes it didn’t even work. Again, it comes back to prevention here by paying attention and keeping things clean.

Bronchitis

As with humans, you’ll notice sneezing, watery eyes, coughing, etc. in affected hens. The mortality rate can be quite high in young hens and chicks usually die from this common illness. The best prevention is a clean, warm, dry living space and a good strong immune system so build your hens up with things like garlic and oregano in their feed daily. A bit of cayenne if they do have bronchitis wouldn’t go amiss.

I will have another post discussing more common bird illnesses soon! Meanwhile you might want to get started on coop project by clicking the banner below or clicking here.

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ChickenCoopGuides’ Fall and Winter Checklist

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Whether you’re new to chicken raising or an old hand, just knowing that winter is near can be a bit intimidating . . . unless you live in Florida where that’s the only temperate time of year. If that’s the case then you can probably tune out most of the following. Many farmers fear the cold more than the heat, when it really should be the other way around since most chickens are more susceptible to dying in extreme heat versus extreme cold.

unnofficial arrival of fall

That said, it doesn’t mean that fall and winter can’t be difficult times for your flock. Domesticated fowl started off thousands of years ago in Europe and Asia as birds who lived in the forests and fields, flying only to low hanging branches. Eventually someone got the bright idea to start keeping these wild critters since they tasted so darn good and lay eggs almost every day! But we have to remember that it wasn’t too long ago that these birds were fully able to look after themselves. So I say unless you live in Siberia somewhere (and perhaps even then) your flock should be able to keep themselves warm enough provided they have friends to cuddle with (one reason I feel it is very cruel to only keep 1-2 hens at a time) and a place that is reasonably free of drafts.

Surviving is one thing, but thriving is another and the goal of most farmers I know is for their flocks to thrive in the winter and hopefully even make some eggs. It’s my belief that nature intended the colder months to be a time for all egg-laying birds to rest and recover from the constant cycle of egg production. Also helps prevent prolapse caused by too frequent laying. For truly healthy birds, I always suggest letting them keep to their own natural cycle. You’ll have better birds and better eggs at the end. I know that many still use lights to force hens to lay and that is a choice you’ll have to make on your own after research. At the White homestead, we don’t do this and have followed a more seasonal eating pattern barring the holidays where my wife usually saves up the fall eggs so she has enough for Thanksgiving and Christmas baking.

So how do you ensure that your hens are healthy all winter long as well as comfortable?

    1. Much like when you get ready for spring, cleaning out the chicken coop is a must. Shovelling out any pine shavings or raking the sand bed – whatever your litter control method is – it’s very important that this is tended to and set up for the next few months. Do this as late as possible in the season and as soon as you have a warm break in the weather ensure that freshening up the coop is one of the first things on your list. One reason this is important is because your hens will ‘flock’ together and if you have a draft free environment then they are going to be susceptible to moisture-based illnesses, especially if you consider that the bedding will break down and create more moisture and heat. The heat will help the flock, but the moisture won’t. Depending on where you live a fan might help with this, just like it does during spring and summer. But if you live in extreme northern climes then a fan may not be prudent.
    2. Create an environment free of drafts that is well insulated. Patch any cracks or holes in the chicken coop. Break down any parts of the coop that could blow off in extreme winds or collapse with too much snowfall. While you’re at it, go ahead and knock on the flooring, walls, roof, etc. to make sure everything is secure. Poke at the siding and roof shingles so you know everything is good to go for a harsh winter without a leaky roof or walls. Look at any wiring you have set up to make sure your girls haven’t pecked through or scratched it since a frayed wire is an awful way to make fried chicken.
    3. If you have your coop wired up, then it’s likely you live in a place where you have at least one or two zero degree days per year if not more. When you live somewhere where the temps dip to zero then you need a heater in your coop, even if it’s just a small heat bulb. Do some asking around to see what farmers or chicken keepers in your area do in order to keep the flocks warm in winter. You may even have to have a water warmer for part of the year so your girls have fresh water instead of icicles.
    4. My wife likes to spoil our hens like they were extra kids or something, so our flock often enjoys warm oat groat mash and a lot of green vegetable scrapings as well as all the seeds we’ve saved from the lambsquarters to fatten them up. Fat hens are warm and generally healthier hens which equals less intervention from us and possibly a few more eggs over the darkest months. Extra corn if you feed your flock corn (we usually give extra peas and lentils since we don’t give our hens corn) is always a good idea during the darkest part of the year.
      Go and visit your hens when the weather permits over the winter and fall months. It’s a good morale booster for you and the chickens.

Do you have your own fall/winter checklist or recommendations? Please share in the comments field below 🙂

Until later,
John

Need Help Building Your Coop? Don’t Have Carpentry Skills?

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I get emails pretty often from folks who want to build a chicken coop of their own but just don’t have the skills or the time or even the ability due to age or disabilities. To them, I generally give one big suggestion that I am going to share now: time banking.

If people have even heard of time banking at all they generally think that they couldn’t possibly have anything to contribute or that they just don’t have the time to participate. 99.99% of the time you’re dead wrong to think this and it’s just feeding yourself negativity. Think positive!

hands after working

First I should backtrack and address what a time bank is and how to find one. Wikipedia defines a time bank as: the practice of reciprocal service exchange which uses units of time as currency.

So a time bank in practical terms is a group of neighbors who get together to exchange labor with each other for credits in the form of hours. So let’s say I go and build a coop for a local dentist who is part of the time bank exchange and I spend 10 hours of time building that fancy coop for him, then I have a credit of 10 hours in my time bank account that I can ‘spend’ with anyone. In that instance, I used those credit hours to get some dental work done at a big discount (only charged for materials) and I got my wife a well-deserved massage with just enough left over to have free babysitting for our anniversary. See how it works? Most people don’t earn big chunks like I did that time – it’s usually in drips and drabs – but they add up!

To find a time bank in your area that is already established, or for information about starting one locally, go to timebanks.org. If you’re outside of the US, I believe there are links to the international organizations on that website but you can also google time banking in your country for more information.

Back when my wife and I first started getting into time banking, perhaps 3-4 years ago, my wife didn’t want to even bother with it because she didn’t want to just be a ‘taker’. In her mind, she had no skills or anything of value to contribute. After the first meeting she sat down and started thinking of all the things she could do as “just as a housewife”:

    1. She could drive using our van. People just needing a ride from point A to point B gave her a call or sent an email if they needed to use her ‘time’. She even picked up the local time bank coordinator’s kids from day camp for a week and earned 15 hours of time banking time for it!
    2. She can cook. Some folks worked 60 or more hours a week and didn’t want to eat out every night so she offered to make them nutritious freezer meals. They bought the materials and she supplied the time. It worked out great!
    3. One single mother in our group needed babysitting one day a week for a month while her mother was in the hospital. My wife kept an eye on that little one as playmate to our own very easily and happily and earned time while doing it.
    4. Someone in the group wanted to learn how to knit and sew so she taught them.
    5. Another person wanted to know how to can vegetables and make jam. Again, she taught them.
    6. Our kids came along one day and earned family hours by helping decorate for a bar mitzvah. Then they were invited to stay and take part which wound up being a cool bonus and a learning experience for everyone.
    7. The other time our kids helped was by going to the local nursing home and reading to one member’s sick mother.
    8. I helped folks weed their gardens and paint their fences among other tasks like building chicken coops.

So as you can see, even a tiny child can contribute to a time bank. And yes, you’ll definitely get a lot out of it for yourself. If you’re older or disabled you can even probably find someone locally who can build that coop for you or maybe help you put up a chicken run. But more than that, time banking is a great way to get involved with your community and make new friends.

I do recommend that everyone who wants their own coop to at least try to build it themselves first and turn to outside sources for help when they get stuck. Most of the plans I sell are very easy to use and made with the beginner in mind. There is pride and satisfaction to be had when you manage to do something yourself. But for when you do get stuck . . . I definitely recommend time banking! 😉

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